Love in The Times of Prawn Curry And Red Rice

Lady Baga tries to recreate the Goa everyone loves

Nivedita Jayaram Pawar

A Goan beach shack in the middle of the buzz and ‘industrial’ ambience of Kamala Mills Compund in Lower Parel, Mumbai? That’s Lady Baga for you. It’s the latest from The Olive stable, so carries a lot of expectations on its young shoulders.

First the feel: Here’s a place that lets you slip off your shoes and rest your feet on the sand beneath your table. Or sink into one of the hammocks. Lady Baga’s sophisticated, yet light and airy, subtly nautical look reflects both in its interiors as well as Chef Aloysius D Silva’s (aka Chef Aloo) menu which bursts with all the delectable seafood you go looking for at a shack on the beach. Our top choice for the starters is the tried and tested Prawn Rissóis. The croquettes are rich with spicy, tangy baby shrimp vindaloo that awakens the senses. Everything is fresh, from the crabs sautéed in lemon, garlic butter to the chunky tuna. “What’s fresh is what’s for dinner,” affirms chef Aloo.

We’d say, give the sandwiches and burgers a miss and go for the Goan Prawn Curry. Powered with red chilies and tamarind, the curry has a delicate taste of the sea. A portion of red rice, crispy fried Mandelis (anchovies), pickled tendli (ivy gourd) and kismor—a dried fish salad, compete for attention. The only way this could be better is if you were in Goa with Kings Beer in hand and with a view of the crashing waves in high tide. Back to the Pork Vindaloo, marinated and cooked in wine vinegar, garlic and Goan spices, this is oh-so-Goan.

For desserts, look no further than the Bread & Butter Pudding. The spongy pudding is pleasing and sprinkled with X’mas spiced fruits. Lady Baga is also one of the few restaurants in Mumbai that has attempted the Portuguese classic Serradura with aplomb. The layers of crumble, condensed milk and whipped cream disappear as soon as they land on the table.

There’s a whimsical cocktail section, try the Bloody Marianna to know what I mean—the Lady Baga version is spiked with Goan chorizo infused vodka! If you’re not adventurous, stick to Fisherman’s Tonic. The cocktail ingeniously uses the discarded Kokum shrubs from the kitchen with gin, lime, curried leaves and soda.

Indulging beneath the brightly lit star lanterns, feet in the sand and the foot tapping music, heightens the sensuality of an already pleasurable experience. So pack a bag - or don’t. Your appetite will suffice!


: Kamala Mills, Lower Parel 

Cost for two

: INR 1500+ 


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