Going Nuts about Coconut Oil
We find out if there is any truth to the many controversies that coconut oil is facing with its superfood status; the recent one lashed out by Harvard professor.
If we were to tell you that your curry leaf smoked fried fish and the finger-licking Kerala curry is “pure poison”, would you really believe it? Well, if anything, it’s the subtle flavour of coconut that gives these dishes a unique lingering taste that other oils can never give. What more, a healthy dose of fresh coconut sprinkled on Indian snacks or blended in our chutneys or soups or even added to cookies and cakes instead of butter only gives a pleasant mellow and flavourful touch to the foods. From making a beeline for the super trendy cold-pressed or virgin coconut oil as part of your nourishing hair and beauty ritual to the go-to in your health loss regime (it is the most weigh loss friendly fat!) to boosting many immune and health issues—coconut oil is an elixir that has been at the heart of Indian cooking system and has spread its superfood status to other countries in the West—including Hollywood. Well, at least, until a recent viral video claimed the humble coconut oil to be “pure poison”. We spoke to several experts to dig deeper into this health scare and find out the real truth behind this debacle.
Courting ControversyThis well-rounded image of coconut oil, however, came
under flak at the Harvard University. It all started in August when Dr Karin
Michels, Associate Professor, Epidemiology, Harvard T.H. Chan School Of Public
Health spoke at the University of Freiburg in Germany. Her video lecture on
‘Coconut Oil and other Nutritional Errors’ went viral and raised a hue and cry
on the health benefits, or the lack thereof.
According to Dr Michels, “Coconut oil is one of the worst things you can eat,” further adding that it is “pure poison.” She based her conclusions on the following:
- Coconut oil contains artery-clogging saturated fats, same as butter, red meat and lard.
- Coconut oil increases LDL cholesterol, also known as ‘bad’ cholesterol, known to increase heart disease risks.
- Rapeseed, flaxseed, sunflower, soya bean and canola oils are healthier alternatives.
Dr Michel’s lecture was preceded by a 2017 advisory by American Heart Association, which states that coconut oil is 82 per cent saturated fat, and studies show that it raises LDL cholesterol as much as butter, beef fat or palm oil.
The Indian TakeCut to Indian kitchens, a majority of the country
uses coconut oil as primary cooking medium. Not just the kitchen, uses of
coconut oil are ingrained within Indian lifestyles. Bangalore-based food coach and nutritionist Anupama Menon says, “There’s a thing about claiming truths on health facts.
Especially when it comes from noted professors and health professionals. It
comes with a moral obligation to bring the truth out to the audience with a
balanced view of the associations of products, and their impact on health. The
video could be misleading and it’s important that we understand the truth
behind this statement.”
While Menon agrees that coconut
oil contains a high percentage of saturated fatty acids, she adds that most of
these are medium chain triglycerides (MCTs). “This means that the number of
carbon atoms in the fatty acid chains vary between 6 and 12 in number. The
smaller, the number of carbon atoms, the better and more quickly it is absorbed
and metabolised by the body. This offers less chances for storage as excess
fat. Hence, it is beneficial for the body.”
Citing some more reasons that
make the case for coconut oil, it has four kinds of fatty acids: lauric,
capric, caprylic and caproic. While coconut oil is great for consumption, low
heat and regular cooking; specific MCT oils (containing fatty acids that have 6
and 8 carbon atoms) are superior. But when compared to ghee, coconut oil’s MCT profile
is better. What more, lauric acid also has antimicrobial properties that rids the
gut of unwanted bacteria and gives beneficial bacteria an opportunity to
flourish. This makes coconut oil anti-inflammatory as well. Coconut oil also
has a thermogenic benefit that boosts body metabolism, increases HDL—the good’
cholesterol—and prompts the release of two hormones that promote wellness
(peptide YY and leptin).
Cooking with Coconut OilTaking on Dr Michel’s claim that coconut oil is
worse than actual lard, Chef Suresh Babu,
executive chef at Clark’s Exotica, Bengaluru explains, “The high heating temperature makes the oil suitable for shallow frying
and not for deep frying. It is a much healthier option in comparison to other
edible oils and is easier for digestion. The cold press coconut oil is edible
In comparison to coconut oil,
rapeseed, flaxseed, sunflower, soyabean and canola oils go through an extreme
refining process, involving toxic solvents and heavy industrial chemicals,
leaving the oils highly reactive in the body. “These oils contain
polyunsaturated oils which causes a damaging oxidative chain reaction,
responsible for arterial blocks,” says Menon.
Industrially processed soyabean and canola oils have even been proven to have 0.56-4.2% trans fats, adds Menon. It has been banned by the American Health Organization, and pushed by WHO to be implemented globally. Trans fats was something that Dr Michel steered clear of, she observes.
Chef Rupesh of The Earthplate at Hotel Sahara Star Mumbai believes, “In a country like India, where fried food is a daily ingredient in our meals, it is very important to understand the benefits of using coconut oil. The benefits of coconut oil remain quite controversial in recent times, but there is no evidence that states that a moderate amount is harmful. The sweetish aroma of frying in coconut oil brings back memories of festive season. Coconut oil is making a comeback into the kitchens after years of being trashed in flavour of other oils.” While such theories do tarnish the goodness of coconut oil on a more global platform, the crux of the coconut oil debacle is that no research can be looked upon in isolation and every food source has to be consumed in moderation.
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